Sun-soaked Malta

Words by Louise Longman

Chic harbours, grand hotels and a melting pot of cultures make Malta a captivating luxury holiday destination

Nestled between Sicily and Tunisia in the middle of the Mediterranean, the sun-soaked island of Malta is an archipelago of three main islands, of which Malta is the largest, followed by Gozo and the largely uninhabited Comino.

This is an ancient temple-building civilisation. Occupations by Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs and Normans have all left their mark on Maltese culture with an impressive collection of archaeological sites, three
of which are on the Unesco World Heritage List: the capital Valletta, the Megalithic Temples – in particular the Ggantija temples in Gozo, older than the pyramids in Egypt - and Hal Saflieni Hypogeum, underground chambers hewn out of rock. Malta’s historical sites can also house private functions and offer tours with local guides.

Making the biggest impression on Malta were the Knights of St John from 1530, a roaming order of Catholic warriors. They transformed Malta into a maritime power and furnished it with Europe’s finest art and ornate baroque architecture including the Grand Master’s Palace and the façade of St John’s Co- Cathedral.

As well as its stunning architecture and rich history, Malta is renowned for its artisanal products. These include lace, filigree jewellery and glassblowing, with Valletta and Malta’s smaller towns and villages still maintaining these centuries-old practices.

Malta’s walled capital of Valletta has long-been an attraction for visitors. This captivating 16-century gold- hued city is dominated by baroque and Renaissance architecture including The Manoel Theatre and The Auberge de Castile, the Prime Minister’s office. There are also several old palazzos that have been converted into boutique accommodation, mostly in Valletta, but also in other towns. Valletta is also home to two rare paintings by Caravaggio.

Harbour views

The best views of the Mediterranean can be seen from Valletta’s Grand Harbour – the perfect spot to enjoy high tea. From Valletta, it’s an easy day trip out to wander the unspoilt streets of the 3,000-year-old Mdina Old City that rises above the surrounding fields.

Thanks to its rich history, Malta’s culinary scene is an enticing mix of Mediterranean cuisine with influences from neighbouring countries and past occupants. Malta is also home to a staggering five Michelin-starred restaurants – quite astonishing when you think of the size of the island – and an array of wineries with guided tours and tastings available on Malta and Gozo.

Traditional Maltese food is rustic and based on the seasons. Staples include lampuki pie (fish pie), rabbit stew, bragioli (beef olives), kapunata (a Maltese version of ratatouille) and widow’s soup, which features a small round of ġbejniet (sheep or goat’s cheese).

A trip to the Marsaxlokk fish market on Sunday morning will show you just how varied the fish catch is in Maltese waters. When fish is in abundance, you’ll find aljotta (fish soup). Depending on the season, you’ll see spnotta (bass), dott (stone fish), cerna (grouper), dentici (dentex), sargu (white bream) and trill (red mullet). Octopus and squid are very often used to make some rich stews and pasta sauces.

In Valletta visitors can enjoy coffee and pastizzi – a traditional Maltese savoury pastry served with mushy peas or ricotta. And where better to enjoy this treat than in one of the oldest palazzos in the city, St George’s

Square. Here you’ll discover the old grand building of Casa del Commun Tesoro, or Treasury of the Order harking back to the rule of the order of the Knights. Inside, the beautiful décor is highlighted by the grand vaulted ceiling which is embellished with paintings by renowned Maltese artist Giuseppe Cali.

Venturing beyond Valletta, you’ll find the cliffs of Dingli on Malta’s west coast and the highest point on the island. A good way to explore Dingli Cliffs is on a Segway tour, starting from the Buskett Gardens.

To appreciate the sheer density of the tiny island of Malta, it’s best to take to the sea to soak up the views. Surrounded by the sparkling Med, there’s a wide variety of water sports including paddleboarding, kayaking and sailing, with one-day and multi-day charters around Malta, Gozo, Comino and Cominotto.

Sea excursions

A typical itinerary might head from Valletta up the east coast to Mellieha, where you can anchor at Paradise Bay and enjoy the beach and crystal-clear waters for swimming. From here you might head to Comino for
a spot of snorkelling and diving and to see the Blue Lagoon, one of the most breathtaking beaches in Malta.

Another itinerary might travel past the fortifications of the Grand Harbour and explore anchorages such as it-Tlett Hofriet (the Three Holes) or the clear blue waters of Selmun bay.

Malta’s sister island, Gozo, is also worth a visit, either as a standalone destination or for a day trip, using one of the ferry-boats connecting the islands. Definitely a quainter alternative to the mainland, with more green areas, Gozo is more sparsely populated and yet offers myriad attractions for the young and young at heart.

Visitors can explore the island via quad bike, jeep or even tuk-tuk, allowing them to roam at their own pace. They can experience old traditions such as the milking of goats and sheep and watch as this milk is prepared into traditional gozitan cheese.

Sun-soaked Malta

In conversation with Saadia Chowdhury

Rev up for Emilia-Romagna